It’s the early hours of Monday June 1st
and we’re off on a three day city break to Lisbon followed by seven days on the coast at
Estoril. The flights and hotels are booked and we’re going to make our own way
in Portugal using their apparently excellent and cheap public
transport. On the way to Heathrow we managed to miss the turning to ‘Long Term
Parking’ three times so it doesn’t bode too well for finding our way around Portugal does it?
We arrived at Lisbon airport and found the right bus to take
us to the city centre and our hotel but there were a lot of people seemingly
doing the same as us. We clambered on board with our cases and Pauline
immediately spotted a couple of seats right at the back of the bus and while I
struggled to put the cases on one of the luggage racks at the front of the bus
she rushed to the back to get the seats. It didn’t help that all the time I was
case struggling there was a constant stream of people boarding and packing out
the bus – standing room only. By the time I reached Pauline at the back I was
already hot, bothered and bewildered and it was only about one hour into the
holiday.
“Do we know where to get off?” I said.
“Of course, I’ve got the instructions here, it has
all the stops on the route,” said Pauline.
The bus had a small overhead display screen that
showed the stops and there was a pre-recorded announcement in Portuguese
telling us the stop as well. I couldn’t really understand the announcement and
I couldn’t read the display so a fat lot of good that all was. I relied on
Pauline to dig me in the ribs when it was our stop which brought to an end me
constantly asking her if we were there yet and was she sure she knew when our
stop would appear. As the bus progressed it got more and more crowded with
luggage being stacked in the racks on top of ours. I noticed that you had to
get off the bus from the door at the back and when it was our stop I had to
struggle down the length of the bus to get the cases and then fight my way
through to the back again to get off. All this time there was a constant stream
of people with luggage moving up and down, some getting on from the front,
others getting off at the back, with me in the middle chucking cases in the air
in an attempt to find ours before rushing to the open doors at the back before
they closed and we drove off again.
Nobody said “Let me help you” and nobody got out of
the way when they saw me careering towards them with two out of control
suitcases until I’d bashed into them a few times and only then did they make
the smallest of movements to let me pass. I got off the bus even more hot,
bothered and bewildered than I was at the beginning.
Luckily the hotel was only a couple of streets away
from the bus stop and right in the centre of things so at least we didn’t have
far to walk.
After checking in we took a tram to the Alfama
district. This is the oldest area in Lisbon and is situated at the top of a steep
hill. Taking the tram up there and walking down seemed like an excellent idea.
Alfama is a collection of ancient homes, squares and narrow cobbled streets
topped off by the Castle of St. George , surrounded by a dry moat and with
far-reaching views of the city below.
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